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  • Alex Honnold, 8a member for 12 years with 800 ascents in his scorecard, shares his thoughts in New York Times, regarding his sponsor Clif Bar fired him for soloing. Alex says he understands their position as a company but it is hard to comprehend why they signed him up in the first place. The article does not mention if any financial deal was made or if Clif Bar just took him out of their pay role. Some years ago, some guys asked if 8a could publish some planned solo climbs. Of course we turned this offer down and since then we have had a general policy to not publish death potential climbs. Honnold is a world class sport climber with three 8c+, eleven 8a+ onsights, including often giving personal grades. Here is an old 8a interview. It is very hard to draw the line what we can publish and we have discussed the dilemma with Honnold personally and he said he totally respected our position. Honnold do not want encourage other to risk their life but he wants to be able to keep doing what he likes. 8a will continue to publish astonishing solo climbs by Honnold as long as they are all around in the media. Last Friday he did Corazon 8a in Yosemite and this was his scorecard comment. "Awesome day of climbing with Tommy (Caldwell)! Fell on first 13b and last 12a but redpointed each. Swung leads and hauling. 15.5 hours of fun.". If you want to stay updated on his ascents, mark him as your 8a friend.

  • It would have been more fun to watch competitions if grades were marked continlusly up the routes. Today, we just see climbers fall and the media report a number, included sometimes a minus which not says much of the performances. Would it not be interesting to hear that it is maybe 8a up to the fourth clip and to see how the athletes climb it so easy. Sometimes, the route setters give a route grade, i.e. 8b+ but if it is 7c or 8a+ midways, where many did fall, we do not know. Of course, the grades will not always be correct and often the route setters have to adjust the grades based on the results of the athletes, but, could you see any disadvantages of such a scoring system? One further advantage is that juniors will have a better understanding when they are good enough to start competing in the Euro Youth Cups and similar comps.

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