Kai Lighter (14) has done 8c+ and onsighted 8b+ although his gym is 5.5 m high, his coaches live 6-12 h away and that he seldom climbs outdoors. His website and well written blog are equally staggering and here are some quick FB answers from the phenomena.
"My mom has been making me write reports on vacations since age 6. I have a binder of reports dating back to kindergarten paper and pictures of my 2006 trip to DC. Mom is a teacher..... I used to hate it. Its actually fun now.
It's just me and my mom and she hates climbing, hiking, outdoors. I have not been able to convince her to climb, but she is almost always the person on belay at the gym and the crag. My coaches have always lived 6-12 hours away, so she has always trained with me. They taught her how to work with me.
I train 5 days a week, around 20 hours total. I am primarily an indoor competitive climber. A few times a year I get outside on real rock. Since outdoor climbing is so far away from where I live, I don’t get outside as much as I would like. Last year I got one 5 day outdoor trip and 5 or 6 weekend trips. This year I haven’t been as lucky. " (c) James Edward Mills