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8a.nu - News BRA

Climbing news
  • Alex Puccio is about to set new standards for female bouldering in 2014 with two 8B+ and now her fifth 8B and the first female ascent of Black Lung in Joe's Valley. (c) Joel Zerr -AMAZING!!! :) Got really really close the first day on it, but finally went down on the third day. It's sooo cold here. Thank you Joel Zerr and Ben Spannuth for brushing the snow and ice off the top out holds. :) original way." Alex has been one of the best competition boulderer for many years but abstained the last two WCs in 2014 and instead focused on rock before the world championship where she got the silver. Check her Facebook for a short five one-arms pull ups. In the 8a ranking game, Alex is now #20 among the guys which no other female has been even close to be.

  • Alex Honnold, 8a member for 12 years with 800 ascents in his scorecard, shares his thoughts in New York Times, regarding his sponsor Clif Bar fired him for soloing. Alex says he understands their position as a company but it is hard to comprehend why they signed him up in the first place. The article does not mention if any financial deal was made or if Clif Bar just took him out of their pay role. Some years ago, some guys asked if 8a could publish some planned solo climbs. Of course we turned this offer down and since then we have had a general policy to not publish death potential climbs. Honnold is a world class sport climber with three 8c+, eleven 8a+ onsights, including often giving personal grades. Here is an old 8a interview. It is very hard to draw the line what we can publish and we have discussed the dilemma with Honnold personally and he said he totally respected our position. Honnold do not want encourage other to risk their life but he wants to be able to keep doing what he likes. 8a will continue to publish astonishing solo climbs by Honnold as long as they are all around in the media. Last Friday he did Corazon 8a in Yosemite and this was his scorecard comment. "Awesome day of climbing with Tommy (Caldwell)! Fell on first 13b and last 12a but redpointed each. Swung leads and hauling. 15.5 hours of fun.". If you want to stay updated on his ascents, mark him as your 8a friend.

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